Written: 26th Jul 2010 | Last Updated: 27th Jul 2010
Like four escargots sharing a borrowed shell, we guided our boat (a 42-foot rental from European outfit LeBoat) at a relaxing pace along the Canal du Midi, in the French region of Languedoc-Roussillon, travelling from Castelnaudary (home of the famous white bean & meat extravaganza, Cassoulet) to quaint Port Cassafières près de la Méditerranée - a fascinating 10-day journey that included a detour down the Canal de Jonction and Canal de la Robine to the lively (once Roman Narbo Martius) city of Narbonne.
What one would hope for on such an excursion would be fine weather, which we got (apart from an hour and a half’s downpour on our penultimate day), no crowding at locks, which we also scored, and great shipboard camaraderie, which proved natural for old friends...simple things, really, but absolute game-makers when you’re working your way through scores of écluses (as locks are known en français) and sharing communal space.
As a crew, we almost immediately forged into an efficient unit - experienced and confident skipper, two eager ladies on ropes (les cords) and an ebullient go-fer (sometimes on foot, other times on vélo) who activated automatic locks, received and released bow and stern lines, and produced biscuit-bones for lock dogs as well as Australian souvenirs for les éclusiers. The “work” proved great fun for the entire cruise, and none of us could imagine slipping along the canal in a professionally crewed vessel...simply not challenging enough.
We discovered an affecting panorama of Languedoc history and politics en route - thousands of years’ worth - while visiting spectacular and elaborate fortifications (Carcassonne), numerous Roman Catholic cathedrals, medieval walled villages, Gaul ruins, exposed stones of the ancient Via Domitia (Roman Road), and also, poignantly, while reading various memorials and plaques honouring locals who died in the Great War and during World War II and the Nazi Occupation. One example, in Capestang’s pretty town square, was a tribute to village men arrested and sent to Germany...to Resistance fighters killed…and to patriots executed on the Champs de Mars in Béziers; many of the town’s streets now bear their names. Cemeteries all across the region record this recurring, devastating sacrifice.
The religious past was violent, too, notably with the Catholic Crusades led by Pope Innocent III, King Philippe II and Simon de Montfort against the so-deemed heretical Albigensian Cathars. In Béziers alone, on July 22, 1209, it is said over 25,000 men, women and children were slaughtered - leaving God to decide who was worthy of Heaven (Catholics) and who was not (Cathars).
As we sailed along the canal, and as we biked or walked into villages, the last of spring’s wild red poppies bobbed softly by fields of wheat and amongst endless rows of grapevines - a metaphor, perhaps, for the blood, the priceless crimson ink, with which history has been written here.
On the topic of vines, the vineyards of Languedoc-Roussillon are the most extensive in all of France. While they may not yet produce wines to rival the great domaines of Bordeaux or Burgundy, and have often been criticised for a quantity-over-quality ethos, the reds we savoured were a lovely rich colour, well-rounded, with a touch of spice...the rosés were refreshing, a little complex and not too sweet...and the whites were fruity and, while not in the same league as the reds, seemed to be heading in the right direction. In recent years the region has been encouraging and implementing bold New World innovations, and as a result standards are improving all the time. We also enjoyed some sparkling whites - Blanquette de Limoux - made using the méthode traditionnelle. While these had a nice bead, they were a little dry and unsatisfying on their own, but blended with our shipboard Crème de Cassis made a very nice apéritif. They still have some way to go to please the palates of those who enjoy the vivacity and elegance of true Champagne.
Some of the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) designations we savoured were Minervois, Corbières, Fitou, Côtes du Roussillon, St.-Chinian and Côtes de Malepère. We also enjoyed Vins de Pays, their humbler cousins. Blending of grape varieties, as elsewhere in the wine world, is de rigueur in Languedoc - favoured red grapes include Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsault and Syrah (Shiraz), while more recently Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have also been introduced.
White wines along the Midi have been much less successful, principally due to the climatic conditions; however, energetic, ambitious and world-wise vignerons are attempting to address this problem using Chardonnay and Viognier grapes in many of their Vins de Pays. Viognier, an ancient grape, is thought to have been brought to the Rhône area by the Romans.
We spent a lovely hour or so at Château de Paraza (where Midi mastermind engineer Pierre-Paul Riquet lived during construction of the canal) in pretty Paraza; there was a wonderful display of antique grape-growing and wine-making equipment, as well as some very polished wines to sample. Les Baronnies 2007 (40% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre and 30% Grenache) was my personal favourite - it would be excellent served with magret de canard or filet de boeuf.
Of course, with wine must go food, and along the Midi, Jonction and Robine canals we ate very well indeed - at local restaurants (notably Le Petit Comptoir in Narbonne and Les Deux Acacias in tiny Villepinte)...at flower-decorated canal-side cafés and poissonneries…and also aboard our boat using the very best produce sourced at various boucheries, épiceries and markets including the fabulous Les Halles in Narbonne, which had beautiful displays of white and green asparagus, tomatoes, artichokes, olives, charcuterie, breads and pastries, a patchwork of herbs and spices, fantastically fresh fish and shellfish, poultry, meats, cheeses and fruits - including great mounds of ripe cherries, one of the treats of late spring.
So with extraordinary history, natural beauty, vineyards and wines, medieval villages and friendly people, delicious foods, sunshine and the excitement of locking, our 10-day cruise was - in a word - unforgettable. We relaxed and enjoyed the ride…and let the demands and responsibilities of everyday life subside. What day is it again??
Do: Preferably travel the Midi so you LOCK DOWN rather than lock up (although you must do both if you choose to travel on the Canal de Jonction and Canal de la Robine, which also involves navigating an 800 metre stretch of the Aude River)
Do: Think about taking the route between Castelnaudary and Port Cassafières - it was highly recommended to us and offers the best of the Midi
Do : Consider the optional extra (if you have 10 days or more aboard) of exploring the Canal de la Robine, even only as far as Narbonne
Do: Try to arrange your trip in May-June or early September to enjoy both good weather and few crowds; high tourism months July and August mean congestion at locks and everywhere else for that matter, especially hotspots like Carcassonne, and will limit your options for tying up at night
Do: Try Cassoulet, even if it’s not your thing…it’s traditional
Do: Visit Carcassonne’s Cité, it is absolutely unbelievable, the fortifications simply breathtaking; but do not expect a great meal there
Do: Travel along the Canal de Jonction to Sallèles-d’Aude, an utterly charming town with exquisite houses lining the waterway; the best Chambres d’Hôtes is blue-shuttered Les Volets Bleus right on the canal just slightly before the lock
Do: Plan your journey well, allowing plenty of time to do what you want, but also so that you arrive at your final destination on the correct day (it’s easy to lose track)
Do: Pack lightly and cleverly, and remember heavy-duty, fitted work gloves for handling ropes in the locks and also a pair of comfortable boat-friendly shoes
Do: Just before you commence your cruise, buy a big container of anti-bacterial, no-water-required hand wash from a village pharmacy; this is essential for crew members who handle ropes as the canal water is very dirty (everything - yes, EVERYTHING - goes into it)
Do: Buy enough supplies so you can cook some of your meals aboard; you’ll enjoy the shopping, and also it will free you up so you can tie up for the night between villages; it’s also handy if the restaurant you’d counted on turns out to be closed (this happens)
Do: Make a sincere effort to brush up on your French, as it will be invaluable as well as respectful; although many English-speaking people have bought and restored homes here and therefore frequent (or have settled in) the region, most inhabitants of the smaller villages do not speak English, and in fact some of the older ones still use Occitan, a Romance language once prevalent in the south
Do: Take lots of photos, as the folks at home will never believe how beautiful, tranquil and historic the Midi is until you show them your album
Do: Remember you are a visitor, so be mindful of local customs and laws, including as you travel along the canal/s; most rental boats have regulators on them so you can’t speed - but anyway, you shouldn’t race through such a glorious, restorative and reflective environment…it is to be savoured with joy
Don’t: Miss this extraordinary experience! :)
